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87 Yehuda Halevi Street, Tel Aviv(03) 560-7345/43Open daily 11:30 a.m.-4 a.m.Not kosher MAKE NO BONES about it, this is a nice little restaurant with delicious food. It�s one of a string of restaurants and cafes that spring up all the time along the end of Yehuda Halevi Street, a mixed residential and business district, catering to the hordes of bank and insurance company workers with expense accounts. The menu is Tel Aviv yuppie, meaning a pleasant mix of Spanish, Italian and Japanese dishes. As the name implies, there is plenty of meat, but we also saw a grilled salmon burger and a grilled sea bream, both served on mushroom-stuffed ravioli and grilled vegetables, and a special that day of roast stuffed chicken. The variety makes for difficulty in choosing, but we went for the liver pat� (chicken, the owner won�t make a pat� from a poor tortured goose) with toast points and the deepest, most delicious onion jam I�ve ever tasted, and the salmon tartare. Both were a nice size, good to look at and very tasty. The tartare was spiced with dill and the usually boring texture of this dish was relieved by bits of crunchy kosher salt and coarsely ground pepper. My friend ordered a 300-gram sirloin, well seasoned and perfectly rare. It was served on a delicious bed of creamy risotto and crisp saut�ed veggies. Yum. My Bones� spareribs (just one of three styles) were hands down the best I�ve ever had in the Holy Land. Instead of the boil first, marinade later versions I usually receive, these meaty large ribs were marinated long enough to actually change the color of the meat and make them very tender. The creamy garlic dip on the side was a tangy touch. The accompanying salad was fresh and lightly dressed and the fried potato wedges had the right amount of spicy paprika and salt. We decided to share dessert: one of the two made on the premises, a wonderful Tarte Tatin; thick cinnamonny, clovey slices of apple baked on a moist buttery crust with a rich ball of vanilla ice cream. We arrived during Happy Hour, so we were definitely feeling no pain by the time the proprietor came over with two shots of Johnny Walker as a digestif. The bar is well stocked and the wine list sufficient. The coffee was excellent. Dinner for two, with a shared dessert, a glass of wine and a shot of Vodka, ran to about 320 shekels ($75). Not cheap, but not outrageous for Tel Aviv.
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