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Nikola
Margo Lipschitz Sugarman
(August 14, 2000) This isn't a restaurant with a view, it�s a restaurant in a view. Nestled on the slopes of Mt. Tzalmon, on Road 804 east of Acre, between the villages of Arabah and Ramah, it�s on the roof of the Nikola family home, the only building for miles, in the midst of a spectacular Galilee panorama.
The set menu starts with a chickpea paste that makes you realize the stuff you buy in plastic tubs in the supermarket doesn�t deserve the title of humus at all, as part of an array of meze that also includes tehinah, tabbouleh, eggplant and vegetable salad and hot, fresh pitot.
This is followed by plates piled high with exquisite stuffed vegetables (grape leaves and squash on the day of our visit) and long skewers of tender barbequed lamb served with siniah, a traditional tehinah-based rice and beef dish, accompanied by carafes of fresh lemonade with mint.
The leisurely meal ends with coffee and cookies, if there�s room. The Arab family serves guests with warmth, and there�s no limit on refills. The price: 60 shekels (about $14) for adults, and 40 shekels (about $9) for kids.
Our advice: When touring the Galilee, resist the temptation to stop at an ordinary eatery in one of the nearby towns, and head straight for the Nikolas.
Mt. Tzalmon, Western Galilee; Tel.: (04) 988-1869 (Open by reservation only. For parties of 50 or more, reserve two days in advance.)
Good Taste
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